NEM jumpsuit accuracy of fit

  • NEM jumpsuit accuracy of fit

    Posted by Torek on November 24, 2021 at 8:36 am

    Hi all,

    the NEM jumpsuit was my first big sewing project ever and I really like the result.

    However, I got a minimal fitting problem and maybe somebody can help here. When I'm completely dressed (undershirt, jumper), it seems that the front wants to pull up, while the backside wants to go down. (Sorry for the poor explanation, hope you guys understand what I'm going to ask 😇).

    In the first photo you can see what I mean.

    The size of this jumpsuit is a MEDIUM. I was asking myself if it's maybe too small and if I should go with a LARGE next time? I wanted to do a VOY jumper and to be honest, wanted to avoid a further muslin test… (sorry I'm lazy 🤓). I added a 2nd photo which shows the jumper completely – I would say the sleeves are ok, in terms of length.

    Thanks in advance! ( @Obsessive Costuming Dude (Alex) you probably will smile about this silly question 🙂 )

    (Please ignore the undershirt as this is long replaced by a better one with more accurate colors and a better fit)

  • 4 Replies
  • Obsessive Costuming Dude (Alex)

    November 26, 2021 at 11:35 pm
    • 127 Posts

    I feel your pain … The originals often did that too (especially on Geordi and Data, in First Contact and Insurrection – see attached screencaps).

    More in my next comment.

  • Obsessive Costuming Dude (Alex)

    November 26, 2021 at 11:46 pm
    • 127 Posts

    That said, the DS9 and NEM uniforms were generally more refined and much better fits.

    The issue is fixable … but it'll take some precision work and patience.

    My eventual, updated TGW sewing patterns for these will be re-drafted to compensate for this issue.

    With the current (Bad Wolf Costumes) pattern*, I believe you have two options:

    1 – Simply lower the corners of the neckline. This is the easiest option, although it will result in a proportionately shallower yoke, which may not look “right” once it's all said and done.

    The second is more involved, but will produce a better result if done well:

    2a – Lower the corners of the neckline so they're flush with the division shirt neckline/collar (as described in #1).

    2b – Lower the bottom edge of the front yoke by the same amount, taking in the difference from the upper edges of the front and side front body panels. (In other words, if you lower the neckline corners 3/4″, extend the lower edge of the yoke downward by 3/4″ and trim away 3/4″ from the aforementioned front panels to accommodate the deeper yoke.)

    2c – Redraw the front edge of the shoulder point to meet the new front yoke seam.

    2d – Trim away the corresponding amount from the front edge of the sleeve so it fits the new shoulder point.

    I hope that makes sense.

    Believe me, I know adjusting the finer details of these uniforms is like the domino effect … but like I said, it can be done with some rulers and patience! 🙂

    Hopefully that helps.

    – Alex

    * For the record, this is the older/current Bad Wolf Costumes sewing pattern, not the as-yet-unreleased, updated TGW sewing pattern. Same with the post about the corresponding DS9/NEM trousers. 🙂

    • Torek

      November 28, 2021 at 11:00 am

      Thank you very much Alex – that sounds logical. However, I'm not that experienced in sewing I must admit, so I think I will keep my eyes open for your updated pattern. Silly question, I know, but do you have some kind of timing for this? 😇

      But good to know I would be a screen accurate Data or Geordi cosplayer 😆

      • Obsessive Costuming Dude (Alex)

        November 28, 2021 at 12:48 pm
        • 127 Posts

        No firm ETA – hopefully this coming year (2022)?

        My immediate priority is finishing these sewing courses, and then I have more TNG patterns to crank out before revisiting the VOY and DS9/NEM-era uniforms.

        – Alex

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